Date Completed:

11/07/26

Materials: (Most OE Parts from Toyota.OEMPartsOnline.com)

- TC9-HDSS - ACT Heavy Duty Performance Street Sprung Clutch Kit (Limitplus1.com)
- 601510 - ACT XACT Streetlite Clutch Flywheel (Limitplus1.com)
- Part #08885-03206 OE transmission fluid 75W (Qty 2L)
- Part #08885-02906 OE transfer case fluid 75W85 (Qty 1L)
- Part #90080-17238 OE front axle hub nuts (Qty 2) (Local Dealer)
- Part #31400-59035 OE clutch release bearing w/bolts (Qty 1)
- Part #12157-10010 OE transfer case drain plug gasket (Local Dealer)
- Part #90430-A0003 OE transmission drain plug gasket (Local Dealer)
- Prestone 12oz Dot 4 Synthetic brake fluid (O'Reilly Auto)
- M8x1.25 bolt for brake rotor (junk drawer)
- Small brass pipe plug for clutch flex line (junk drawer)
- Cardboard for marking fastener group labels (random box)
- Something soft between GRC transmission and transmission jack
- Jack oil to top off the hydraulic transmission jack
- Ziplock bag to catch weeping clutch flex line
- Brake cleaner for ACT flywheel / pressure plate
- Plastic water bottle and tubing for bleeding clutch
- Permatex red for flywheel bolts
- Loctite 243 for Pitch Mount
- (2) Cotter pins for tie-rods
- Zipties for calipers
- 2x4" board 24" long
- 6x6" wooden blocks
- Shop towels
- Paint pen
- Pen

Tools: (some tools below are for OE clutch, downpipe, etc.)

- 1/4" drive ratchet with multiple extensions and sockets (7mm, 10mm, 12mm)
- 3/8" drive ratchet with multiple extensions, swivel, and sockets (5mm hex, 10mm hex, 12mm, 12mm deep, 14mm, 14mm deep, E10 for stud)
- 1/2" drive ratchet with multiple extensions and sockets (H10, 17mm, 19mm, 21mm, 22mm)
- Combination wrenches (8mm, 2x 10mm, 12mm, 16mm, 17mm, 18mm, 21mm, 24mm)
- 10mm flare wrench for OE throw-out bearing hydraulic fittings
- 1" drive torque multiplier with socket (33mm)
- 1" drive torque wrench (200-600 lb-ft)
- 1/2" drive torque wrench (50-250 lb-ft)
- 3/8" drive torque wrench (10-75 lb-ft)
- 1/4" drive torque wrench (40-200 in-lb)
- 1/2" breaker bar + cheater pipe
- 9,000 lb 4-post lift (optional, but highly recommended!)
- x,xxx lb old hydraulic transmission jack
- 1,500 lb tall jack stands (x2)
- Chinesium jack + jack stands
- O'Reilly Auto Parts rental tool #67102 (fwd axle puller) + #67031 (slide hammer)
- Rolling oil drain cart to catch transfer case + transmission fluid
- Chinesium air impact hammer + small tip for de-staking axle nuts. Dremel + cutoff wheel can also be used to cut out staked section.
- Channel locks for removing passenger front axle carrier bearing snap ring
- Rechargeable headlamp w/soft strap = Coast XPH30R 1200 Lumen (Amazon)
- Hand pump + hose for filling transfer case and transmission
- Friend for bleeding clutch and pressing brake pedal
- Flat-blade screwdrivers (small and large)
- Gloves (both leather and nitrile)
- BFH for smacking things
- Small and large punches
- Needle nose pliers
- Ratchet strap
- Scissors

Notes:

1. Several wiring connectors/plugs need to be temporarily disconnected (battery negative, MAF, reverse switch, neutral switch, O2 sensors, grounds, etc.).
2. Note this installation is slightly different than a stock GRC because I already have an Eventuri intake, OTL downpipe, and UniClutch Track installed. Your mileage may vary.
3. I did not update my pictures from the UniClutch install where I now have an OTL downpipe. I had to remove the OTL downpipe to drop the transmission.
4. Transfer case does not get removed individually. Leave all the bolts/nuts tight. Transfer case comes out attached to the transmission.
5. I did not change any of the axle seals (transmission/transfer case) because they were not damaged, and my GRC only had 22,000 miles on it.
6. Don't forget to transfer the bearing plate from the OE throw-out bearing to the new OE throw-out bearing.
7. If you are replacing the OE dual-mass flywheel, grab it firmly and turn it to align the bolt holes.
8. Weights:
         OE pressure plate + clutch disc = 13.4 lb. ACT pressure plate + sprung disc = 14.6 lb. Added weight = 1.2 lb.
         OE dual-mass flywheel = 25.6 lb. ACT Streetlite flywheel = 15.8 lb. Reduced weight = 9.8 lb.
         Total weight reduced = 8.6 lb.
9. Immediately after clutch install is complete, get an alignment because the front suspension and steering are all out of whack now.
10. ACT specifies 300-500 miles of mild street driving for clutch break-in. Avoid driving habits that would allow excessive slipping or overheating of the clutch.
11. ACT specifies a down step of 0.381" for their flywheel. It can be resurfaced.
12. Steps & torque specs were pulled from GRC Manual on TIS. Yes I downloaded the entire manual, and no you can't have a copy.
13. Reversible back to stock (if needed).

Removal:

1. Put GRC up on a 2 or 4-post lift.
2. Disconnect battery negative terminal. (10mm) Put microfiber towel over latch assembly and gently lower hatch until it touches. Do not push or lock.
3. Loosen front lug nuts. (21mm + Advanced wheel lock in my case)
4. Jack up front end and place high up on jack stands.
5. Pop hood and remove intake box. In my case, remove Eventuri front section. (7mm, 2x 10mm combination wrenches)
6. Remove front wheels/tires.
7. Remove front brake calipers. Temporarily attach each brake caliper to front strut spring with zipties and microfiber towel. (17mm)
8. Remove front brake rotors. Thread M8 x 1.25 bolt into front face of rotor if it's stuck. (13mm)
9. Remove front axle hub nuts. De-stake each nut! I used an air hammer. Can use dremel. Use large prybar to keep hub from spinning or use torque multiplier. (33mm)
10. Remove rear undertray below the engine/transmission. (10mm + flathead screwdriver)
11. Drain the transfer case. Open the fill plug, then the drain plug. (10mm hex)
12. Drain the transmission. Open the fill plug, then the drain plug. (24mm + 21mm, 22mm)
13. Remove factory wiring harness from front of transmission. (10mm, 12mm, flatblade screwdriver)
14. Disconnect clutch flexible line from hard line on front of transmission. (10mm flare wrench, 18mm, flatblade screwdriver)
15. Put temporary brass pipe plug in flexible clutch line or use pinch-off pliers.
16. Remove clutch line bracket. (12mm)
17. Disconnect side braces from front subframe. Pass side stays in for intercooler piping. Driver side comes out. (14mm)
18. Remove (2) nuts and (1) bolt from each lower front suspension a-arm at bottom of knuckle. (17mm)
19. Disconnect each front swaybar lower endlink. Remove nut. (17mm + 16mm, 6mm hex if it turns)
20. Back out passenger front axle carrier bearing (bottom) setting bolt. (14mm)
21. Remove passenger front axle carrier bearing snap ring. Leave hanging. (channel locks)
22. Remove transfer case heat shield. (12mm)
23. Mark driveshaft. Remove nuts/washers from driveshaft at transfer case output flange. (14mm)
24. Remove pitch mount from transmission. (14mm, 22mm)
25. Mark each front hub for reassembly of notch for staking.
26. Tap each front axle with a BFH and chisel to break loose from hub.
27. Remove (2) strut pinch bolts w/nuts from each side. (22mm, backup wrench if needed)
28. Remove front ABS sensor from each knuckle. (10mm)
29. Remove front hubs, leave on wood blocks for now. Tie-rods still connected to steering.
30. Remove front passenger axle shaft from transmission/transfer case. Use slide hammer and FWD axle puller attachment if needed. Don't damage axle seal.
31. Remove passenger front axle carrier bearing bracket. (14mm)
32. Remove rear oxygen sensor bracket and wiring harness from front subframe. (10mm, flatblade screwdriver)
33. Climb inside GRC cabin and remove steering shaft column hole cover silencer sheet.
34. Put reference marks on the steering shaft before removing pinch bolt. (14mm)
35. Separate steering shaft from rack. Careful, sharp edges!
36. Underhood, disconnect both shifter cables from top of transmission. (flatblade screwdriver)
37. Before removing shifter cables, put reference mark on (1) shifter cable and bracket.
38. Remove bolt from rear oxygen sensor harness bracket next to shifter cable bracket. (10mm)
39. Disconnect (3) rear oxygen sensor harness tabs from top of front subframe. (flatblade screwdriver)
40. Unplug the transmission sensor in front of the shifter assembly. Hard to reach underneath.
41. Put a hydraulic transmission jack under the front subframe.
42. Remove the front (2) bolts from the front subframe. (19mm)
43. Remove cotter pin from each front tie-rod castle nut. (needle nose pliers or flatblade screwdriver)
44. Remove each tie-rod castle nut. (17mm + BFH)
45. Tap each front knuckle to release the tie-rod. (BFH)
46. Remove the rear (2) bolts from the front subframe. (19mm)
47. Put a ratchet strap over the front subframe to hydraulic transmission jack.
48. Check the clutch flexible line. If it's leaking brake fluid, address the situation.
49. Wrap a strap around the driver side front axle to keep it from drooping.
50. Lower the front subframe on the hydraulic transmission jack.
51. Remove downpipe bracket with bolts (2 on top of transmission, 1 on OTL downpipe). (14mm)
52. Remove driver side front axle shaft with slide hammer and FWD axle puller attachment. Don't damage axle seal.
53. Start removing transmission bolts. Passenger side bolt below the transfer case. (14mm)
54. Remove driver side transmission bolts. (2) lower, (2) starter bolts. (14mm)
55. Put hydraulic transmission jack under transmission. Use something soft between jack and aluminum transmission case.
56. Use ladder to gain access underhood again on the 4-post lift. Remove top transmission bolts. (17mm, 14mm)
57. Put tall jack stand under block beneath front passenger axle carrier bearing bracket location (upper oil pan).
58. Put a ratchet strap over the transmission to the transmission jack. Go UNDER all the wiring harnesses and other stuff up top.
59. Climb up the ladder and remove bolts from the upper transmission mount. (12mm)
60. While up there, remove the transmission cable bracket. (12mm)
61. Driveshaft needs more slack to prevent binding on the transfer case output flange while removing the transmission + transfer case together.
62. Remove the side undertrays adjacent to the driveshaft. (10mm, small/large flatblade screwdrivers)
63. Remove center brace bolts (rear), and loosen center brace bolts (front). (12mm)
64. Remove the heat shield for access to the driveshaft center carrier bearing bracket. (fingers on plastic nuts)
65. Remove the driveshaft center carrier bearing bracket. Let the driveshaft rest on a tall jack stand. (17mm)
66. Push transmission over to favor driver side so input shaft clears the factory clutch (or other clutch). Then go down with transmission jack.
67. Remove factory (or other clutch) pressure plate bolts and discard them. In this case, ACT provides new pressure plate bolts. (12mm)
68. Remove OE dual-mass flywheel (H10). Use combination wrenches + dowel pin + screw driver to prevent flywheel from turning.
69. Remove clutch line from bleed assembly to OE hydraulic throw-out bearing (10mm flare). Remove rubber plug on transmission bellhousing.
70. Remove (3) bolts on OE hydraulic throw-out bearing (13mm).
71. Remove the bearing plate from the OE hydraulic throw-out bearing to install on the new OE hydraulic throw-out bearing.

Installation:

Note: I torque 33%, 66%, 100%, then ring fasteners again.
1. Install ACT XACT Streetlite Flywheel (28,56,85 lb-ft with red thread locker).
2. Clean ACT Flywheel friction surface with brake clean and paper towel.
3. Install new OE hydraulic throw-out bearing (3 bolts = 5,11,17 lb-ft). Install OE bearing plate on new OE hydraulic throw-out bearing.
4. Reinstall OE clutch line from new OE hydraulic throw-out bearing to bleed assembly. Reinstall rubber plug on transmission bellhousing.
5. Use grease provided by ACT to lubricate the factory transmission input shaft.
6. Test fit ACT sprung disc on factory transmission input shaft. Wipe off any excess grease from the disc.
7. Hold sprung disc to flywheel and insert ACT clutch alignment tool into end of crankshaft. "Transmission side" label on disc faces towards transmission (not flywheel).
8. Clean ACT pressure plate with brake clean and paper towel.
9. Install ACT pressure plate onto ACT flywheel with ACT clutch alignment tool still in place.
10. Start threading ACT pressure plate bolts in by hand. Periodically push and pull the clutch alignment tool. It must not be in a bind!
11. Install ACT pressure plate bolts (6 bolts = 8,16,25 lb-ft).
12. Remove ACT clutch alignment tool.
13. Raise transmission + transfer case back into position. Good luck finding the angle to stab the input shaft. It's easier with ACT instead of thicker UniClutch.
      Did you remember to reinstall the OE bearing plate on the new OE hydraulic throw-out bearing?
14. Transmission (5 small bolts = 11,22,34 lb-ft), (2 larger bolts up top = 16,31,47 lb-ft).
15. Starter (2 bolts = 11,22,34 lb-ft).
16. Transmission upper mount (4 bolts = 13,25,38 lb-ft). Use prybar or 2x4 to tilt engine forward/back so mount lines up. Don't cross thread bolts!
17. Downpipe to transmission top bracket (2 bolts = 11,21,32 lb-ft), (1 bolt to OTL downpipe = hand tight + Nord-Lock washers).
18. Transmission shifter cables top bracket (3 bolts = 13 lb-ft).
19. Transmission shifter cable bracket clips (x2), washer (x1), small cable end clips (x2).
20. Transmission top wiring bracket for rear oxygen sensor (7 lb-ft = 84 in-lb).
21. Match reference mark. Driveshaft to transfer case (4 nuts/washers = 18,36,54 lb-ft).
22. Driveshaft center carrier bearing. Bracket must be perpendicular to driveshaft. (2 bolts = 9,18,27 lb-ft).
23. Driveshaft center carrier bearing heatshield (2 plastic nuts hand tight).
24. Center brace below driveshaft (8 bolts = 17,34,52 lb-ft).
25. Both side undertrays adjacent to the driveshaft (5-6 bolts hand tight, bunch of plastic clips).
26. Transfer case heat shield (2 bolts = 18 lb-ft).
27. Passenger front axle shaft carrier bearing bracket (3 bolts = 16,31,47 lb-ft).
28. Wiring harness, sensor connectors, grounds, etc. on the transmission. (one 12mm bolt = 15 lb-ft, two 10mm bolts = 7 lb-ft).
29. Raise front subframe back into place. Maintain clearance for steering shaft into firewall boot without damage.
30. Tighten front subframe (4 bolts = 34,69,104 lb-ft).
31. Re-connect steering shaft inside cabin to steering rack. (1 bolt = 16,31,47 lb-ft).
32. Steering shaft cover inside cabin.
33. Driver side knuckle to lower a-arm (2 nuts + 1 bolt = 22,44,66 lb-ft).
34. Driver side front axle. Take care to not tear the transmission seal. Make sure to push/feel click of spring clip.
35. Driver side tie-rod (1 castle nut = 12,24,36 lb-ft). Tie-rod points down and inserts from top of knuckle. Install new cotter pin.
36. Driver side ABS sensor into knuckle (1 bolt = 75 in-lb).
37. Driver side sway bar lower end link (leave finger loose until all 4 wheels of GRC are on the ground).
38. Driver side brake rotor.
39. Driver side front brake caliper (leave 2 bolts finger loose for now).
40. Match reference mark on hub. Driver side front axle nut (leave finger loose for now).
41. Passenger side knuckle to lower a-arm (2 nuts + 1 bolt = 22,44,66 lb-ft).
42. Passenger side front axle. Push into carrier bearing, then into transfer case and transmission. Don't damage axle seal.
43. Passenger side front axle carrier bearing (1 bottom setting bolt = 8,16,24 lb-ft).
44. Passenger side tie-rod (1 castle nut = 12,24,36 lb-ft). Tie-rod points down and inserts from top of knuckle. Install new cotter pin.
45. Passenger side ABS sensor into knuckle (1 bolt = 75 in-lb).
46. Passenger side sway bar lower end link (leave finger loose until all 4 wheels of GRC are on the ground).
47. Passenger side brake rotor.
48. Passenger side front brake caliper (leave 2 bolts finger loose for now).
49. Match reference mark on hub. Passenger side front axle nut (leave finger loose for now).
50. Side braces to front subframe (4 bolts per side = 17,34,52 lb-ft).
51. Pitch mount to transmission (4 bolts = 11,21,32 lb-ft).
52. Pitch mount to front subframe (1 bolt + Permatex blue = 38,76,115 lb-ft).
53. Clutch slave cylinder bracket to transmission (1 bolt = 15 lb-ft).
54. Clutch flexible line to hard line (1 flare nut).
55. Rear oxygen sensor bracket to front subframe (1 bolt = 7 lb-ft).
56. Rear oxygen sensor harness clips to front subframe (several).
57. Intake piping with MAF sensor. Leave front intake box (or Eventuri) off for now.
58. Phone a friend. Bleed clutch with help from friend. Press clutch 5 times, hold down, open bleed screw. Close bleed screw. Repeat as necessary.
59. Keep friend to hold brake pedal down to torque front brake calipers (22,50,74 lb-ft).
60. Friend still holding brake pedal down to torque front axle nuts(72,143,217 lb-ft). Then stake each nut.
61. Friend can go home now.
62. Front intake box (or Eventuri in my case).
63. Driver side knuckle pinch bolts to strut (2 bolts w/nuts = 66,131,199 lb-ft).
64. Passenger side knuckle pinch bolts to strut (2 bolts w/nuts = 66,131,199 lb-ft).
65. Front wheels/tires (4 lugs, 1 wheel lock = 76 lb-ft dry or 57 lb-ft w/anti-seize).
66. Jack up the GRC, remove the jack stands. Lower to ground.
67. While still on the 4-post lift, torque front swaybar lower endlink nuts (18,36,55 lb-ft).
68. Torque transfer case drain (1 plug = 10,19,29 lb-ft).
69. Torque transmission case drain (1 plug = 10,19,29 lb-ft).
70. Fill transfer case until fluid comes out fill hole. Do not overfill. Wait 5 mins. Torque case fill (1 plug = 10,19,29 lb-ft).
71. For the transfer case, I used a manual fluid hand pump with a tube that fit inside the bottle. It took about 0.5L of fluid.
72. Fill transmission until fluid comes out fill hole. Do not overfill. Wait 5 mins. Torque trans fill (1 plug = 10,19,20 lb-ft).
73. For the transmission, I used the same manual fluid hand pump while under the transmission. It took just under 2L of fluid.
74. Reconnect battery negative cable. Remove microfiber towel from latch assembly. Or climb in through the back seat if you locked the hatch. LOL.
75. Follow the ACT break-in process. See notes section (#10) above.